Chef Susan Kim’s Doshi pop-up was one of my favorite tasting menus this year! She is currently at Turntable SF for the month of November through December 3rd. I went in expecting elevated, modern Korean food, but chef delivered an experience that was far beyond what I imagined. I personally like the term “fusion” when applied to food, but I understand it has a negative connotation at times. Well, if any concept can turn this sentiment around, it is Doshi.
Susan Kim was born in Seoul, grew up in California, and worked at Chez Panisse prior moving to NYC. She started Doshi in 2020, inspired by doshirak boxed lunches from Korea. Her background shines as she returns to the Bay Area with a guest residency at Turntable by Lord Stanley.
The tasting menu started off strong with a bugak (fried seaweed) chip and dungeness crab dip. Throughout the meal, familiar Asian ingredients such as seared tteok (Korean rice cake), were combined with halloumi cheese, egg, and brown butter to create a masterful symphony of cross-cultural comfort food.
Another standout was the beef carpaccio with tonnato (Italian tuna/anchovy mayo sauce) and anchovy almond crumble. I’m personally not the biggest beef carpaccio fan, but I was stunned at how much I enjoyed this dish. My friend who loves carpaccio said it was her favorite dish of the meal.
Dessert was equally as satisfying – persimmon pudding cake topped with a walnut butterscotch doenjang (Korean fermented soybean paste). The taste and texture of the thin-sliced persimmons were incredibly similar to apple pie apples, but with a subtle savory twist from the doenjang.
The final icing on the cake, was a trio of small candies – anchovy toffee, umeboshi (Japanese pickled plum) pâte de fruit, and sour apple pâte de fruit.
Doshi is also doing takeout/delivery boxes, which I plan to try next. Another repeat tasting menu may need to be in my near future as well. I truly can’t recommend this pop-up enough.