Heading into October felt treacherous. I was physically and mentally low, frustrated with just about everything. I almost canceled what was already a last-minute first trip to London. My instinct, when overwhelmed, is to retreat into solitude. But I also know travel has a way of resetting and recharging me.
Three friends were coincidentally flying into London around the same time, so I forced myself to commit to at least one leg of a Europe trip. London turned out to be a beautifully chaotic and stimulating trip, and what I needed to pull me out of my slump.
In my rushed planning, I made time for one fine dining experience. London’s vast food scene felt intimidating as a first-timer, but one name kept surfacing: Ikoyi—the spice-driven creation of chef Jeremy Chan and his business partner Iré Hassan-Odukale. It defies easy classification, perhaps because there’s nothing else like it.
I managed to snag a week-of lunch reservation and opted for the condensed lunch tasting menu (though the full version is also offered midday). The progression of dishes grew steadily on me, and by the end, I was especially captivated with the desserts, where the interplay of heat and sweetness sang.
The meal began with a rich gola pepper chicken broth. I skipped alcohol and chose a Da Hong Pao oolong, floral and earthy, which paired beautifully. I found the tempura-style turbot with bright crab salad to be a textural delight, and the aged beef rib with their signature smoked jollof rice and lobster custard met expectations. Despite the condensed format, the portions felt generous.
Pepper appeared in many forms and shown most for me in the dessert: jasmine sorbet warmed with chili oil, peppercorn mousse over brown butter ice cream and ginger cake, and sweet melon offset with unexpected numbing spice.
Service was warm and conversational, though timing between courses was noticeably slow. When I mentioned my plans to explore cocktail bars, a manager returned with a handwritten list of some favorites. I also loved the design of the space—sculptural yet comforting, reflecting the same balance of discipline and warmth that defined the food.
Overall I enjoyed my experience, and though I wouldn’t say I necessarily craved any dish afterward, the menu stretched my palate in ways few meals do. Ikoyi was inventive and quietly bold. I suspect I’d have loved the full tasting even more. And given how much my first trip to London won me over, and how little I managed to cross off my list, I have a feeling I may be back sooner than I think.
