Leila – Moroccan Fine Dining in Honolulu

When out-of-town visitors asked for upscale food recommendations in San Francisco, Mourad was at the top of my short list, thanks to a rare mix of excellent food and cocktails, plus the luxury of scoring a last-minute reservation. So when the city’s standout Moroccan restaurant closed late last year, it was a genuine loss.

Fortunately around the same time, chef Mourad Lahlou quietly opened Leila across the Pacific in Honolulu, teaming up with chef Chris Kajioka. The chef duo behind the hit Japanese-French spot Miro Kaimuki is already making waves with their second act.

Familiar favorites from Mourad SF make a welcome return at Leila as supplements, like the flaky duck basteeya, build-your-own buttery uni brioche, and those heavenly, creamy oysters.

The restaurant currently offers a $75 four-course prix fixe menu, and I was impressed that I enjoyed this meal even more than its predecessor.

Naragi crudo slices arrived beautifully plated, with a harissa crunch reminiscent of chili crisp. A crispy skin salmon delivered, the crackling exterior giving way to delicate large flakes, all set in a refreshing warm broth of pea and asparagus.

But the unexpected standout? A modest-looking endive salad. Whipped goat cheese mousse, oregano vinaigrette, dukkah, and sweet date slivers came together harmoniously. Even my partner (a salad skeptic) named it his favorite dish of the night.

Dinner concluded with Strauss soft serve, layered with banana, caramel, and the same spiced candied nuts found in the basteeya. A nice echo to end the meal.

The ambiance is sleek, dimly lit, and much smaller and intimate than Mourad SF – great for date night. Note that there’s no bar, so cocktails are pre-batched. I enjoyed a za’atar martini and a spin on an old fashioned with dates.