In the ever-changing chaos that seems to be my life, one of the few constants has been good food. I wasn’t planning to celebrate my birthday this year, but somehow the food gods blessed me with a same-week reservation at Sons & Daughters, one of the local restaurants I’d been most eager to try.
I’ve been watching Chef Harrison Cheney’s rapid rise over the last few years, from one Michelin star to two in pretty quick succession, and had been meaning to make it in before another star jump.
Expectations were high, and they were met. Every course was thoughtful and excellent, with no weak link. Rather than one singular standout, it was the consistency across the entire meal that left an impression.
I also enjoyed the woodsy, foraged feel woven throughout. The presentation brought in elements of the outdoors: flowers, leaves, berries, branches. Serving vessels also felt earthy and tactile.
A few favorites: glistening raw coonstripe shrimp arrived arranged in a heart shape, nestled in a peach-colored cream made from the roasted heads and shells.
A duck was teased earlier in the meal, tucked inside a wreath of purple flowers and greenery. A few courses later, it reappeared as smoked duck breast, with the leg tucked in a delicate nasturtium leaf taco, and accompanied by a bowl of fruit.
And what a treat to add on a very generous golden osetra caviar supplement with brunost (Norwegian brown cheese) ice cream!
The service was polished, if a little reserved. The space complemented the experience nicely: stark but warm, with concrete, wood, and warm lighting. I was happy to see they kept the lovely open kitchen from its previous life as Osito.
Toasted oats with chamomile and oak aged quince vinegar cookie.
Sweet wheat bun with birch syrup and brown butter.
Not So Turkish Delight with rose geranium.
What a special setting for a birthday meal I hadn’t initially planned on having. Apparently, the food (and wine) gods knew better than I did.
