For a country mocked for its food, the British are fiercely proud and particular about their cuisine. I saw this firsthand when I had the chance to dine at Corenucopia, the newly opened restaurant from renowned chef Clare Smyth.
Corenucopia reinterprets British classics through a fine-dining lens, but in a more approachable “luxury bistro” format. Approachable is relative, of course. It’s still pricey, just not Core-level intimidating.
After dining there during opening week, I posted a short video highlighting the lobster mousse–filled fish and chips, and it proved unexpectedly polarizing. While most viewers were intrigued, a vocal minority declared blasphemy at the idea of rethinking such sacred comfort food.
The comments were… spirited.
Some were pure outrage. “Bloody hell just do a proper fish and chips.”
Others were conflicted. “That does look good but something in me feels that poncified fish and chips is wrong.”
One echoed a familiar refrain. “I don’t think I or other Londoners are the target audience.”
Reading through the comments, it was clear that many of the reactions were less about the restaurant itself and more about identity. For many, British food is tied to the classic, homey staples that have long been mocked and defended in equal measure.
As an immigrant who grew up between cultures, “classic” has never felt fixed to me. I’ve always been drawn to reinterpretation and change, partly out of necessity, partly out of curiosity, and still with respect for where things come from. Reworking tradition doesn’t feel like sacrilege. It feels familiar.
So perhaps I am the target audience.
The meal itself was a celebratory lunch during a friend’s birthday trip to London. Corenucopia struck a balance that felt well suited for an upscale midday meal. Overall, the dishes were enjoyable, though both the fish and chips and the turbot felt underseasoned to me. That could have been opening-week growing pains, or maybe it’s just my American palate showing itself. The service, however, was genuinely warm and attentive throughout.
Corenucopia is clearly capturing a wider audience than Core might on its own, aligning with a broader trend of acclaimed fine-dining chefs opening more casual sibling restaurants. As a diner, I welcome the shift. More access to excellent food is rarely a bad thing.
And after my experience at Corenucopia, I’m now even more curious to try Core.
